Selcuk is the closest city to the ruins of Ephesos, the best-preserved, classical Roman city west of the Mediteranean. I arrived early at the Homeros pension and was welcomed by Oya, the very friendly and quirky owner. After showing me my beautiful room, with AC and a private balcony, she invited me to the rooftop terrace for a late breakfast. Beyond the amenities, she made sure all of her guests felt like members of her family, the rest of whom also worked at the pension. She offered home cooked meals every night, free wine at sunset, car rides to Ephesus, and help with pretty much anything else we might need.
I spent the rest of the day walking around the city. I visited the remains of the Basilica of St. John; a monumental church built over the supposed grave of the apostle. I was stunned by the weight of the materials, which seem even heavier sunk into the ground where they have collapsed. I stopped for lunch at a lush, outdoor café with wooden canopied porches covered in rugs, floor pillows, the whole orient package. Listening to the birds and prayer calls with mixed feelings, I started thinking about what tourists want. I think we all want to see something exotic, which this café obviously understood. As I paid my bill the waiter told me about a wedding reception there later that night and that I should come see it.
After waking up from a nap I found my power to be turned off. After asking about it I was told that the entire city’s power was down. I was glad to see that restaurants were still serving food, and as I sat down to eat dinner I was really excited about a night in complete darkness. By the time I had finished dinner and the sun started to set, a generator had been turned on and a cheer was heard down the street. Again I sat with mixed feelings. On one hand I enjoyed the AC of my hotel room, but I was more than happy to trade that for seeing the city respond to a total blackout. I also worried that the wedding reception might be canceled if the power had stayed off, so in the end I was happy to see it return. I went back to the café and had a great seat overlooking the reception with fireworks, lots of dancing, a huge cake, and a boy dressed in silver robes on a pony. I think tourists also want to see something authentic. I felt really lucky to be invited.
The following morning was spent at Ephesus, squeezing past tour groups. The grounds were incredible. You could see how roads were laid out, where homes stood, and the huge importance of temples, libraries and theatres. I guess it also gave you a sense of moving through a bustling Roman street, but I got sick of the crowds pretty quick. I think many tourists want to feel they are “discovering” something. Walking off down a dirt path I ended up alone among some of the distant ruins (which I found out later where off limits) and had some time to myself. That night I ate dinner at the pension. “Mama” was cooking tonight. Before dinner a small group of us sat on the terrace with our glasses of wine and watched the sunset. And the next morning, as each of the pensions guests left, Oya gave us hugs, told us not to go, that she would cry, and poured water on the street behind us for good luck.
massive statue of Emperor Domitian
